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Authentic Sardinian filigree: how to recognise it (and buy well)

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Why this guide and who it is for

If you are looking for Sardinian filigree earrings, rings or pendants and want to be sure you are buying authentic, well-made pieces, this guide is for you. It is written for women aged 40–60 who want jewelry that lasts, feels comfortable and means something. You will find what to check at a glance, how hallmarks work, which finishes make sense, the common mistakes to avoid, and how to buy online with confidence.

Workshop note: at Gioia Sarda we craft our jewelry in 800 silver because, in our hands, it is robust and less prone to visible tarnish over time while keeping fine filigree details crisp. For quick help message WhatsApp +39-3247426529.

Explore our collections:


What filigree really is in 60 seconds

Filigree is a goldsmithing technique where thin metal wires are braided, granulated and soldered to create light yet sharply defined patterns. In Sardinia typical motifs include braids, spirals and granulation such as the classic bottone sardo. Good background reading:

For local context, see:


Authenticity signals: what to spot at a glance

1) Regular patterns, but not “clone-perfect” like a stamp True artisan filigree is precise, yet micro details are never identical as with cast or pressed pieces. Granules vary slightly and braids breathe.

2) Invisible micro-solders Joins between wires and grains are clean, with no excess solder or shiny blobs.

3) Credible thicknesses The piece feels coherent: not too thin where support is needed and not unnecessarily bulky. Filigree should look alive, not flattened.

4) Smart finishes A good antiqued finish brings out relief and depth. A high polish should not show waves or random scratches.

5) Hallmark and maker’s mark Look for the fineness (for example 800 or 925) and the workshop mark. If you cannot see them, ask for macro photos or a written declaration.


Hallmarks, fineness and materials made simple

  • 800 silver = 80% silver + 20% other metals. Historic across Italy and the EU. Robust and great for fine textures.

  • 925 silver (sterling) = 92.5% silver + 7.5% other metals. Global standard. In many alloys it is more prone to tarnish.


At Gioia Sarda we deliberately choose 800 silver for filigree because it gives us crisp patterns, stable micro-granulation and easy care.

Simple home checks that won’t damage the piece

• Cloth test: use a proper silver cloth on a hidden area. Dark patina decreases without scratching.

• Touch test: true filigree is firm yet light, not stiff like plastic.

• Macro photos: ask for close-ups of solder points, grains and the back. Cleanliness says a lot.

• Sanity check: compare weight vs volume. An oversized pendant that feels ultra-light could be overly hollow or pressed.


“Right price” and red flags

  • Very low prices on very intricate looks. Ask questions. Filigree takes time.

  • Vague product copy. If fineness, finish and technique are not specified, ask.

  • Only stock photos. Prefer own photos showing hands, bench work and details.

  • No fast contact. Real workshops are reachable and send photos and advice.


How to buy online with peace of mind: a short checklist

  1. Read reviews and prioritise those with photos.

  2. Check clear pages on sizing, finishes and returns.

  3. Ask for macro shots of the exact piece you are buying.

  4. Verify the hallmark and declared material.

  5. Keep the written exchange with promised details.

Need the easy path? Message us and we will send macro photos and help with ring size.


Sardinian filigree: iconic models and how to pair them

  • Bottone sardo earrings: essential and perfect for everyday wear. Add a matching pendant for a tidy set.→ Explore Orecchini sardi and Ciondoli sardi

  • Fedine and fedi sarde: from campidanese with airier patterns to nuorese with stronger granulation and gallurese with a flowing braid. Ask for our side-by-side macros if you want real examples.→ See Fedine / Fede Sarda

  • Bracelets: bangles or chains. Pay attention to secure clasps and proper sizing.→ Browse Bracciali sardi


Minimal effort, maximum result: care tips

  • After wear: 10 seconds with a soft silver cloth.

  • Before wearing: apply cream and perfume first, jewelry after.

  • Skip pool and household cleaners when wearing rings.

  • Store separately in a rigid box or anti-tarnish pouch.

  • Occasional professional polish brings back the fresh look.

Questions or quick advice: WhatsApp +39-3247426529.


Frequently asked questions

How do I tell real filigree from pressed or cast patterns? Check macro photos. Wires should look braided, grains placed and soldered, not a single fused relief.

Which is better for Sardinian filigree, 800 or 925 silver? It depends on design. In our workshop we prefer 800 silver for stable micro-textures and easier care. 925 is excellent too, but high-polish 925 often needs more cloth work.

Which finish looks good for longer? Antiqued highlights relief and forgives light patina. High polish is stunning but needs more upkeep. Satin is a balanced middle ground.

What if my ring size is off? Contact us. Depending on the model we can often exchange or adjust.

 
 
 

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